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Coppermine River Canoe Expedition
In 1987, we ran the Coppermine River in the Northwest Territories
of Canada from Rocknest Lake to the Arctic Ocean at the town of
Coppermine. The town has since been renamed to Kugluktuk and it is
now situated in Nunavut, which was created in 1999. We flew on
chartered Twin Otters from Yellowknife to Rocknest Lake late on July
11 and arrived in Coppermine on July 21. We flew back to Yellowknife
on the first available commercial flight, which gave us what turned
out to be an iteresting two day stay in the arctic town
The trip grew out of discussions between Rick Perley and I about
our mutual desire to do a canoe trip in the far north. Rick had an
old canoeing buddy, Rand Rudland, who had done some canoe guiding and
was now a physician. He agreed to come and, with his guiding
experience, ended up doing much of the organizing. My father, Bob
Walker, who was 68 at the time, agreed to come as did Rick's brother
Mike. My father had been on a multi-day canoe trip with me in
Saskatchewan in 1982 but otherwise did not have much canoe experience,
although he was a very experienced outdoorsman. It's a bit sobering
that, as I write this in Jan. 2023, I am now 6 years older than he was
at the time or the trip and we thought he was old! The rest of the
crew were physician friends of Rand's or friends/relatives of them.
They were Stan Lubin, Ben Gelfant, Colin Walker, Kerry Luttrell and
Alex Ross (Kerry's cousin).
This trip generated several long term friendships. I did other northern
canoe trips with Kerry, Colin, and Alex, and am still doing frequent
trips, now mostly rafting, with Kerry and his family. Rick and I
still live in the same town and work for the same outfit (NRAO) so we
see each other often (although I'm officially retired). But Rick has
not gone on another big canoe trip.
We brought our own canoes. Rick, Kerry, and I had Old Town
Trippers. Rand had a fiberglass Clipper and Colin had an ABS Clipper.
For the flights to Rocknest Lake, we chartered two Twin Otters.
Normally there are two rows of seats on one side and one on the other.
For this application, they folded the twin row seats and piled the
canoes there. We sat in the single seat rows. With that
configuration. 3 canoes and 6 people fit. We could have saved a bit
per person if we had had two more, but that didn't work out.
The cameras I used on this trip were my Konica Autoreflex T3 and
the far smaller Rollei 35S. Both used slide film, a mixture of
Kodachorome and Ektachrome. In early Jan 2023, I digitized the 140
slides that had been selected shortly after the trip and put in a
slide projector tray that I still have. I used my Pentax K5 DSLR,
100mm macro lens, and the slide holder with frosted glass from an old
slide duplicator, all mounted on a piece of slotted steel angle, to
take pictures of the slides. This seems to work better than my old
film scanner. It is certainly faster. For my next digitization
project, I need to remember to set the camera white balance to the
illumination source (incandescent here) rather than judge each slide
separately. I had to fix a number this time and some could still
stand to be tweaked. After digitization, the photos were cropped and
cleaned up a bit with the Gimp. Note that the camera and date
information with each photo is for the digitization, not the original
picture. A few slides might be copies of photos taken by others but
none are in the distinctive "duplicate" mounts usually used for copies
so maybe none made it to the edited set.
Somewhere I probably have Bob Walker's photos from the trip. If
I locate them, I might add some to the show.
This is the web version of my Coppermine River slide show. There
are fewer slides than the main show and the full resolution versions are
not here.
Click on the image for a screen size version.
The "2000" and "full size" versions are larger (not available in web versions).
Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Scan of a print showing the whole group. Not
sure who took it. Standing left to right: Rand, Mike, Rick, Colin, Ben, Kerry,
Bob, Craig. Kneeling: Stan and Alex.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 11. The shore in Yellowknife.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Sorting gear preparing to load the float plane
in Yellowknife. Left to right, Bob, Rick, Mike.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A Twin Otter landing (I think) at Yellowknife.
This was our plane, or one very like it.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Loading the Ptarmigan Airways Twin Otter in
Yellowknife. This is Rick and his canoe.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is the second flight to Rocknest Lake.
Left to right are Bob, Craig, Mike, and Rick.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Looking down on Yellowknife and its airport
shortly after takeoff.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Rick and Bob in the Twin Otter.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is a land of many lakes in depressions
left by the ice age glaciers.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: More lakes on the flight in.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Unloading at camp on Rocknest Lake in the
evening.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The plane heading out to return to Yellowknife.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The plane departing. There is a sobering
moment when watching the plane depart and all goes silent. You
realize you have been left hundreds of miles from civilization with
just your friends and no way to correct any errors in preparation and
you need to get to your destination to get out (while we had an HF
radio, this was before satellite communication was common).
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The campsite was covered with bear
tracks. Shortly after the plane left, a big grizzly wandered into
camp. I think he was startled as we were. With 10 of us including
Alex who fired a couple of warning shots, he took off and did not
return. I barely got the camera out and did not get a good picture.
But if you look carefully, you can see that the brown smudge left of
center in this photo is a bear.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is our bear alarm. The food bags with
paddles precariously holding pots to make noise if the bear came back.
In hindsight, we should have put the food farther from camp although we
were probably pretty safe with so many people, one of them armed. Anyway,
that was the one and only bear we saw on the trip, but it got us off to
a nervous start.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 12. Departing across Rocknest Lake for the
Coppermine River in the morning. This was an intense crew with early
starts and long, fast paddle days. We had a couple of 60 mile days.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: There were rapids at the lake outlet
where we did some lining, and even took advantage of the big crew to
carry loaded canoes over a very short portage (~40 ft) without unloading.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Lining around some of the bigger waves.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We also ran some of the waves when we could
see a clear way through.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Kerry lining his yellow Tripper.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Rick and Mike in their blue Tripper.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A bald eagle by the river.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Ben (I think) and Colin escaping the
mosquitos while eating. An advantage of wearing wetsuits.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The first camp - rather marshy and buggy.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Bathing in the river. The water was warm
enough (low 60s F) to do this fairly often.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A closeup of Kerry's canoe with reflection.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We had some of the worst mosquitos I've
ever seen at this camp. Looking over the water, they looked like fog.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: These specs are bugs.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 13. Tremendous fishing near Fairy Lake
River - one fish per cast and they weren't small. We used the spray covers
for the first time today and they really helped with big waves in the rapids.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Some arctic terns by the river. These birds
migrate to Antarctica!
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Rick and Mike. One nice aspect of a trip near
the continental tree line is the mixture of forest clumps with tundra.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A beaver. The photos is not too well focused.
Somehow I didn't do too well with the animal photos on this trip except the
gyrfalcon coming later.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Mike and some soft cliffs along the river.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Camp on the river. We had a very localized
thunderstorm here followed by bad bugs. The bugs beating the tent were
so bad for Rick that he almost didn't come out for dinner, thinking it
was still raining.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 14. Trumpeter swan taking off.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Placid water canoeing. We were making about
30-35 miles per day in conditions like these. The sandy hills are presumably
an esker which is thought to be made from deposits of sand and gravel by
streams under the ice age glaciers.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We rafted up in the middle of the river for
lunch to avoid the bugs. If anyone went to shore, they were supposed to
make a concerted effort to kill all the bugs on their boat before rejoining.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: When the breeze came up, it was tempting to
sail using tarps. This is the two-boat catamaran sailboat scheme. It's
not clear that trying to sail with make-shift sails was any faster than
paddling, but it was more fun and relaxing.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A campsite on sand by the river.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The view up the river valley from the hills
above camp. One note from Bob indicates the sun was still a few degrees
above the horizon at 11:10 pm. We missed the midnight sun, but not by
much.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Another shot from above the river.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A shot of me on the hill above the river looking
in the other direction.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 15. Kerry and Alex. More flat water today.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Craig and Bob.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We found two small cabins by the river. Some
saw a moose near here.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: My canoe hear the cabins.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Some residual snow on the water's edge.
Note the minimal shrubbery and trees near the water. Anything along
the water's edge is subject to the violence of spring break-up. Some
gravel bars looked like someone had run amok with a bulldozer. But it
was just ice blocks pushed by current in the spring.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A rocky camp site near a small rapid.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 16. Some more flat water with Kerry and Alex
in the foreground and Ben and Colin in the background.
\photo
RCW55571_G Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Now we hit some more serious
conditions with more frequent rapids. This is the entrance to Rocky
Defile. Some of these rapids looked like they could be run and indeed
have been, but the consequences of having problems were greater than
we wanted to deal with. Often there were wall hits where the whole
river went down.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Our decision to portage was confirmed when about
half way along the trail we found a memorial to two people who had drowned
here in 1972. Apparently others have drowned there since.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We saw a caribou during the Rocky Defile portage.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The sandy beach at the end of the Rocky Defile
portage.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: I went exploring while the group relaxed at
the end of the Rocky Defile portage. Up above the cliffs I encountered
this gyrfalcon standing on the edge. He let me get within about 20 feet
and I had a 500 mm lens, so I got a number of photos.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The gyrfalcon is getting a bit annoyed at my
approach.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Finally, the gyrfalcon decides it's time to
leave. Unfortunately the photo is a bit blurred.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Bob and Craig and their tent at the camp at
the confluence of the Coppermine and Kendall Rivers.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Rick and Mike exploring a bit up the Kendall
River.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A rough-legged hawk (based on comparison with
Google image search results) in a tree near camp.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 17: Along some cliffs, maybe just
below the Kendall River confluence.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Some swallows nests along the cliffs.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We ran into a sizeable snow bank along the river
and went exploring.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A close up of the edge of the snow bank.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Rand and Stan taking a nap. -->
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We encountered the Arctic Char camp of an outfit
based at Great Bear Lake. They were supplied and accessed by plane, which we
saw. We later encountered their clients fishing downstream from the camp. We
stopped and fished a short way downstream of them and seem to have better
luck than they were having.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Camp above the river after the fishing camp.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Looking up river from the hill above camp. Now
the evidence of the scaring by the spring break-up is getting dramatic, with
almost all vegetation for many feet above the water completely stripped away.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: At camp above the river.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: A close up of the fire with a fish cooking.
The char on this river were generally big enough for 2 fish to feed
all 10 of us.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 18: Rick and Mike. The weather so far
had been beautiful, and buggy. It turned dreary here and that lasted the
rest of the trip. At least the bugs thinned out. It doesn't show here,
but the river started to get faster and rougher
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is likely Muskox rapid which Rand
and Stan, and Rick and Mike lined. Ban and Colin ran it, then Craig
and Bob followed by Kerry and Alex ran it. The waves were fairly
large and going in every which direction, but the heavily laden boats
were very stable and the spray covers kept the water out so it proved
fairly easy despite doubts at the start. This sequence is Kerry and
Alex running it. One reason we were willing to run it is that the
consequences of a mistake did not look bad.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Kerry and Alex farther into the rapid.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Kerry and Alex in some of the tail waves.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: At a rather dreary lunch stop after Muskox
Rapid.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: At one point, we had three boats ahead and
two behind. The three stopped at a place where the whole surface of the
river was flowing up stream. We saw some pieces of wood float by. There
weren't many places that they could have come from. The most disturbing option
was from Colin's boat which had its spary cover pulled back at the bow to
carry firewood. We had encountered some unexpected white water which did
not cause problems for the rest of us, but Colin's boat took on too much
water and swamped. Much hard swimming and pulling by Kerry and Alex got
them to shore.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We took an early camp on a bench above
Sandstone Rapid. Here we are drying Colin and Ben's gear.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The camp above Sandstone Rapid. We opted
to stay at this camp for a rest day.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 19. During the rest day, the Perleys and Walkers
went for a walk down river and somewhat inland. We saw many flowers and
3 caribou. The tundra is very uneven making walking somewhat difficult.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: And some more flowers.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: An iteresting rock found during our walk.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Looking downstream (I think) along the river.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Two of the three caribou we saw during the walk.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The three caribou on the skyline.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Our camp at Sandstone Rapid wth a rain shelter.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 20. The river is fast and has frequent
whitewater. In one big set of waves, water entered Colin and Ben's boat
through the front opening the spray cover. They sank again. It took all
four of the other boats to get both people and canoe to shore - it's a big
and fast river. It was probably fortunate that the only team that swamped
on this trip (twice) were also the only ones wearing wetsuits. But remember
the water temperature was in the 60s. We built a fire and were warming
everyone when Ben noticed some metalic copper in a vein.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We started a minor mining operation using
the hammer end of an axe. We each managed to extract some pieces of copper.
Between us we extracted around 5 to 10 pounds. This was a location that
probably doesn't get visited much at all. There is no obvious reason to stop
there unless you are dealing with a capsized boat. The river is named the
Coppermine because the natives obtained raw copper from deposits like this
long ago. For some reason, actual mining operations have not been done.
Perhaps there isn't enough to be commercially worth while.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The copper that we extracted. I still have
my pieces.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Escape Rapids. Kerry and Alex ran it. Colin
wanted to but Ben did not and he could not convince anyone else to go with
him. The rest of us portaged. It wasn't that it looked all that hard,
but there were potential bad consequences if things went amiss and we
were being conservative.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Escape Rapid with waterfall on a side stream.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Looking down on Escape Rapid.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: At the top of the waterfall at Escape Rapid.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Rand and Stan on the Escape Rapids Portage.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: We camped at the end of the portage. That
night I put too much chili in the dinner for the Walkers and Perleys and
only Rick and I could take it.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: At the Escape Rapids camp. Rick has an aversion
to sand so he camped on the rocks. The rest of the tents were on softer
surfaces.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 21. The final obstacle - Bloody Falls.
This rapid looks like it would be very serious for a canoe. Rafts maybe.
Anyway, there was no debate. We all portaged.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is the final drop of Bloody Falls. It
is also the limit of upstream navigation by motor boats from the town
of Coppermine (Kugluktuk). The two people on the far side are from town.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: The river below Bloody Falls was very wide
and mostly, but not always, shallow. You'll note that the farther boat
is being walked. At one point Stan was walking his boat when
he suddenly went for a swim - the bottom had dropped away.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: At the end of the Coppermine River, you
paddle out a bit into Coronation Gulf of the Arctic Ocean and go around
the point to town, which faces the sea rather than the river. Some of
river is doing the same so you are still on fresh water at town.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is near where we landed. Since the
town is not connected to anywhere else by road, many people have boats.
Most are modern motor boats, but some are more traditional like this one.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: This is on the hill above town when the
sun is low, which it is for a long time while it is skimming the horizon.
Toward the left end of town, a flag pole flying the Canadian flag can be
seen. No hotels or other lodging facilities were available so we ended
up camped in the yard of the RCMP office. We had a couple of day's wait
for our flight out. It was an interesting couple of days visiting the
Co-op, buying some local art, visiting some of the artists in their home,
and getting a demonstration of the events of the Northern Games from
the local team during training.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: July 23. This is our plane for the flight
out. These northern aircraft are configured with cargo in the front half
and passengers in the back half. We had a pile of gear and 5 canoes.
Here Kerry's and Colin's canoes are being loaded onto the plane, on top of
the cargo.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: Looking back on Coppermine with the Coppermine
River in the foreground.
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Coppermine River Canoe 1987: During the trip, Ben (as I recall) broke a
corner off his paddle and made a field repair. After the trip, we all
signed it.
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