This map shows my hike in red. The original map is at the "interactive map" link at the web site https://heartofthegila.org/trail-info/. That map uses an annotated caltopo.com map to show trail conditions, as indicated by the other colors. The triangles mark my four campsites. The first, third, and fifth days were mostly on dry land. The second and fourth days were following the West and Middle Forks of the Gila River and involved a large number of river crossings.

The trail head parking just beyond the Gila Cliff Dwellings visitor center and start of the trail to the Cliff Dwellings. My car is the blue Suburban. There were signs at the trailhead warning of cougars and that this is a Mexican Wolf reintroduction area. Curiously, there was no sign about bears, although they are there.

The first few stream crossings, before some branch trails, had logs set as bridges. So I was using wool instead of neoprene socks for a while.

The trail was in fairly level open forest in a wide valley near the start.

The log bridges got more marginal as the canyon closed in.

Time for the neoprene. This combination of neoprene sock and Keen SOLR sandals worked extremely well with the frequent river crossings.

Much of the canyon had vertical sides with the river bouncing between the cliff faces. Each time it did that, the trail had to cross as it is about to do here.

An interesting segment of the cliffs along the river. A cave, a rock pilar, and multiple rock layers are visible.

A peaceful river scene from half way across one of the crossings.

At my first camp getting ready for dinner. My typical dinner was a Mountain House freeze dried meal, an Aussie Bite and whatever left over gatoraid (powdered after the first day) and lunch snacks I had. I only boiled water. In addition to paper maps, I used an iPhone SE for navigation with apps that support downloaded maps. I used the InReach Mini to communicate daily with my wife Joan and as a possible emergency beacon. The Steripen was my method for water purification. I had both bear cannister and spray. If I did it again, I would probably take the spray but use tree hangs instead of the cannister.

The cliffs above camp.

Some interesting cliffs along the trail.

There was an occasional really nice established campsite. Unfortunately they did not appear at the times I wanted them.

There was a moderate amount of beaver activity along the river.

Another mid-crossing photo of river and cliffs.

A stretch of river with more slab rocks than the usual big gravel. Unfortunately one of the slabs was very slippery and I went down in the water getting my camera wet. I removed the battery and let it dry for a few hours to try to avoid problems. That worked and I used it for the rest of the trip after that evening. I used the iPhone for a few photos while the Sony was drying.

An iPhone photo of the river and some interesting formations.

My camp in the Hell's Hole area. I never did put the fly on the tent on this trip. It did not threaten to rain.

Climbing up out of the West Fork canyon on the morning of day 3. The climb was a bit over 1000 ft.

An old skull along the trail through the flatish country between the forks of the Gila.

This gives a better idea of the country at the skull. It is open forest. Everything seems very dry. The river did not have its usual spring runoff spike this year.

Fairly typical trail sign, this one at the junction of the Woodland trail and the Prior Creek trail.

Prior cabin along Prior Creek, which is in the foreground - obviously dry. We saw a bit of seepage at a spring upstream from here. The stream supposedly gets perennial downstream a ways but I didn't check it out. The trail toward the Meadows on the Middle Fork takes off up the hill behind the cabin. It took a while to find it. This was one of several places I encountered a group from Bloomfield, NM. I ended up camping with them at the Meadows.

Some interesting trees not far before the junction with the trail that comes up from the Meadows.

We were worried about possibly missing the junction, but it turned out to be very obvious, with a big clearing and an impossible-to-miss sign.

Not far from the junction, there is a nice rock outcropping at the edge of the Middle Fork canyon that provides a good view. The Meadows, where I and the other group camped is at the bottom center of the photo.

The descent was a bit interesting but I didn't have any trouble until this stretch just as it reaches the valley floor. There some rocks rolled under my feet and I sat down. The campsite is right behind me.

My third camp, which was near the Bloomfield group. Note my 49 year old Kelty frame pack that is still going strong. I bought it in 1972, if I remember correctly, and have used it ever since. See the 1975 Mt Vancouver expedition and the 2003 Sierra Hike slide sets for other trips where I used it. It does have significantly upgraded belt and shoulder straps but the frame and bag are original. FYI it weighs 5 pounds which is in the range of other packs that can handle serious loads. I've carried in the neighborhood of 100 pounds several times on climbing and canoeing trips.

Along the Middle Fork.

Another stretch along the base of some cliffs.

Poinson Ivy! I didn't know it until a few days after the trip, but I clearly tangled with some and got big rashes on the right side of my hip, on my belly, and on the inside of my right ankle. I am suspicious that I had a contaminated shirt sleeve on a bathroom break somewhere. Note how the clusters of 3 leaves come off the main stem alternating from side to side.

Box Elder. This plant also has three leaves, but note how the clusters come off the main stem opposite each other. That is the key to telling it from poison ivy. This plant is benign, and there is much more of it than poison ivy, especially along the West Fork.

A particularly good log bridge not far from Jordan Hot Springs. This one clearly was not intentionally placed - it is way too big.

Light in the trees.

A nice stretch along the cliffs.

Some lupine.

Me standing at Jordan Hot Springs. I took the opportunity to clean my clothes by wearing them in the spring. The water was warm, but not very hot. I almost measured the temperature but broke my thermometer in the process. This was a very pleasant pool with clear, clean water.

A river crossing downstream from the hot springs.

Middle Fork of the Gila and cliffs near the junction with Little Bear Canyon.

The junction of the Middle Fork trail and the Little Bear trail. I camped near here, then walked out over the Little Bear trail the last day.

My camp near the junction. There was room for many camps here.

Cliffs across from camp.

Some of the interesting formations near the camp.

In Little Bear Canyon.

Another in Little Bear Canyon.

A view along the Little Bear trail.

A trail junction about half way along the Little Bear Canyon trail between the Middle and West forks of the Gila.

Back at the Cliff Dwellings visitor center and trail.